The Radical Sandwich Kings of New Orleans

February 3, 2017

The chicken-fried steak sandwich at Turkey and the Wolf in New Orleans is not so much a food you eat as it is a shape-shifting beast you wrestle into submission. Two thin slices of white bread can barely contain the torrent of ingredients roaring between them: ripples of pounded New York strip encased in crackly batter, a mound of coleslaw and a ragtag row of dill pickle coins, and slicks of pepper jelly and a spicy mayo dubbed “bird sauce.” After you’ve picked up a half of this monster, it’s hard to put it down — for reasons of practicality