Snail comes out of the shell and onto the menu

May 15, 2017

The increasing appearance of snails on menus gives a nod to both the continuing sophistication of the American diner and the growing creativity of the American chef.

The tiny mollusk enjoyed a brief moment in the sun in the middle of the last century, when escargots à la bourguignonne were de rigueur on menus at French and Continental restaurants, bestowing bragging rights on diners brave enough to indulge. Now snails are following other Mad-Men-era throwbacks like surf-and-turf and tiki bars by staging a comeback and turning up in a range of dishes at a range of venues.

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