Grill Like Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker With Thaan Charcoal

May 29, 2015

The struggle began with mesquite. “We were with it for a long time,” says Andy Ricker, who burns through his fair share of charcoal at his Pok Pok restaurants, “but that was problematic: It’s very unhealthy to work with and a mess to deal with all the time.” So began the search for a better charcoal.

Ricker’s top prospect was binchotan, which burns cleanly for long stretches at a consistently high temperature. Except: The top-shelf stuff, used at some Japanese yakitori spots, proved prohibitively expensive. In the process of researching, Ricker learned, however, that there was more out there than…