A Legendary New Orleans Restaurant, 160 Years In the Making

September 2, 2016

If Miss Brenda is in the kitchen, you can tell by the chicken bonne femme. It’s not the most famous Tujague’s dish — that would be the boiled brisket, likely followed by the shrimp remoulade — but it’s certainly the unsung hero at this 160-year-old New Orleans institution. The crisp skin. The juicy meat stacked high and smothered in scallop-sliced potatoes and loads of garlicky persillade. If chef Brenda Gooden — known to longtime regulars as “Miss Brenda” —prepares it, it’s served on a bed of purple cabbage with ripe grape tomatoes as a decorative garnish. It arrives at the